Named Clothing Isla Trench Coat

Sunday, November 05, 2017

I'm going to be bold and say that if I only have one masterpiece in me, this is probably it. After months of planning - and many more months of procrastinating - I'm so pleased to finally be able to share my finished Named Clothing Isla Trench Coat.

Named Clothing Isla Trench Coat
Do you think ankle length denim will catch on?
Approaching this project is not for the faint-hearted. I technically started it in spring, but got no further than sticking the MASSIVE PDF together. As you can see, the finished thing is pretty long, so some of the pieces are huge, and the jacket is made up of more individual pattern pieces than I've ever seen - 24 in total, many of which you have to cut out multiple times in the outer fabric, lining and interfacing. Some of the pieces are overlapped too, so you still have to do some tracing, and I really hate tracing. One positive though, and a bit of myth busting here for some of you who asked: seam allowances are included in the PDF version of the Isla (phew)!

Pinterest inspiration, particularly the middle image!
Supplies!
Inspired by some amazing denim trenches I came across on Pinterest, I bought this mid-weight blue denim (sorry I don't know the exact weight!) from my local haberdashery, Samuel Taylors in Leeds. It's not the cheapest project to embark upon; requiring 3.5m for the outer alone, plus lining fabric (I bought cheap khaki lining to try and even out the expenditure!), over 2m of interfacing and notions. Having seen some great versions online (I love this one by Le fil à la gratte) I knew that it would be well worth the cost.

Flash of khaki lining
Cutting and marking up the pattern pieces took me a day, and then there was prepping the pieces with interfacing, but once I was sewing the whole jacket came together surprisingly fast! The instructions are very clear and methodical. I felt like could approach the make one element at a time, the first being the welt pockets. I've never done a welt pocket before, but they weren't nearly as difficult as I'd imagined. It's crazy to think how much effort went into them for them to sort of blend into the background, but it's the little details that seem to count with this jacket and that definitely appeals to my inner perfectionist.

Welt pocket!
Speaking of details, nearly every edge is double topstitched. I wasn't brave enough to try a contrasting thread, but if you cared to inspect my Isla up close, I'd say the matching topstitching still makes for a really professional finish. The lined cape was a particularly fun element to make and topstitch, and it's probably my favourite thing about the finished jacket. 

Coming together quickly with the cape
Side view/silhouette
The collar/collar belt was a nice chunk to construct in one go and the details make it look so professional in finish. It's a shame the collar belt and loops are mostly hidden away under the collar itself, but I made sure to get some pictures below to show you all!

Collar belt detail (buttons from Textile Garden)
Under-collar details
I was on a bit of a roll and made just one mistake: sewing the sleeve bands on at the wrong notch, meaning they sat way too close to the sleeve edge. I'd almost finished the jacket before realising and although it didn't look too bad, I had to go in through the lining and correct it or be forever annoyed.

Corrected sleeve bands!
Other than that, the whole sew was smooth, even the lining/bagging out stage, which I had expected to be difficult based on previous bagging out confusions with the Waver Jacket and Yona Coat. Joining the inside of the vent to the lining was probably the hardest bit to sew neatly, but luckily is hidden away on the inside. It's also worth mentioning that I skipped the shoulder pads, which hasn't made much of a difference to the finished jacket. With or without shoulder pads, the style is very much 'power dressing'.

Lining flash!
I found the most beautiful imitation tortoise shell buttons from Textile Garden that work perfectly with the denim, with matching small ones for the collar and sleeves. If I made the Isla in future, I'd consider doing bound button holes for a better finish as the regular ones don't quite cut it, particularly as the rest of the jacket is finished to such a high standard.


I'm absolutely thrilled with the finished jacket, and I'm so glad I stuck with it. If you've stuck with the saga on here/Instagram and read this far, thank you! I've sewn a couple of jackets/coats in the past, and more recently the Linda Wrap Dress which has a lot more technical elements to it, but I'd built this up to be something else entirely. It's actually turned out to be my favourite jacket sewing experience ever, and I credit a lot of that to the fab instructions - thanks Named! Don't be put off by the 5-scissor difficulty rating, just give it a go. When I eventually got started, it took me a little under 2 weeks of evening/weekend sewing to finish.

Back view
Should have smoothed out that squiffy cape!
I don't think I'll be sewing another trench any time soon, but if anyone else wants to, here are some other great trench coat patterns:

Londres Trench Coat and Jacket by Orageuse
Luzerne Trench Coat by Deer and Doe
Tracy Trench Coat by Style Arc
Robson Coat by Sewaholic
Vogue 8884 (great one here by Diane at Dream.Cut.Sew)

Hi mum if you're reading! Thanks for the pictures :)
I'm just getting over a bit of sewing fatigue and then I'll be returning to my backlog of sewing plans. I have a few skirts (including another New Look 6418 in more faux suede I picked up at Sew Brum), a Kyoto Sweater and the Lander Pants in the pipeline. But in the meantime, I'm very much enjoying wearing my finished Isla Trench.

Is anyone else feeling like braving a trench or coat this winter? Which pattern will you be sewing?

Stay in touch!



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22 comments

  1. Oh gosh bless you for the shout out on my Vogue trench...xxx
    I have to say though. I had the absolute pleasure of seeing your Isla trench in the flesh at SewBrum and it is amazing! Perfect topstitching and finish, great buttons and lovely lining. I loved how the flaps are all lined too. Really fabulous!

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    1. Your Vogue trench is well worth a mention - it's fab!
      And thank you so much for the kind words. It feels pretty good to finish such a big project with all those tiny details :) x

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  2. Wowsers!! Your coat is amazing!! I love all of it, the top stitching, storm flaps, pockets. Argh - it's just fabulous! Happy wearing!

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    1. Thanks so much Lynne! There's definitely lots of happy wearing going on here - if only I didn't have to take it off :) x

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  3. This looks incredible! I'm so impressed. I'm going to have a go at making my first coat this autumn/winter but going to start with something (much) simpler! :)

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    1. Thank you Dani! Go for it with the coat - you'll be amazed at how you ever considered buying one rather than sewing! The Yona Wrap Coat was my first foray into winter coat sewing, it's quite a simple one if you like the style of it! Good luck!!

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  4. This looks beyond fabulous! You should be so delighted with it. Beautifully made and executed.

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    1. Thank you! I'm absolutely delighted. I had the idea so long ago that I wondered if I wouldn't like the finished thing, but really glad I stuck with it :)

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  5. Fantastic Coat Shauni, it looks amazing. I don't think I'd have the patience for completing something like that.

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    1. Thank you Claire! Getting started was more of a hurdle, but it was quite fast once I got sewing :)

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  6. WOW!!! I don't think there is a better word for this project, haha! Beautiful work. I hope it gets tons of wear, especially with all the work you put into it! It's stunning in denim, too.

    I have this pattern as well and it's kind of my "ideal" as far as what trench coats should look like. Not sure when I'll get around to it, but it's on my (ever-growing!) list!

    -Abbey

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    1. Ahh thank you Abbey! It's already getting tonnes of wear - think I'll literally be wearing it till it falls off me haha.

      I can't recommend the pattern enough - you should definitely try and squeeze it on the list! Look forward to seeing yours when you get around to it :)

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  7. HELLOOOO NURSE. That's a thing of beauty!

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    1. Haha, oh thank you lovely lady! :)

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  8. It's beautiful! You did such a marvellous job on it, and the denim was such a great choice too. I think that since I am having such a hard time finding a good trenchcoat in the colour/style/size I want, I am going to end up sewing it myself too. I am feeling rather intimidated at the thought, though!

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    1. Thank you Nicole! I can't recommend the pattern enough! By far my favourite coat sewing experience and my new fave Named pattern. I was so intimidated to start with too, but splitting it into little chunks made it feel much more manageable - an evening on the welts, an afternoon on the collar etc - and before I knew it it was done!

      Really hope you enjoy making it if you give it a go! :)

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  9. Love your trench! Looking at the other patterns you've listed I think you've picked the very best one - it's classic and has ALL the bells and whistles for a TRUE trench. Love it in denim and I never would have thought of denim for a trench. I'm really tempted seeing yours I must say. I had a trench coat YEARS (40?) ago that I loved to death. It was a classic bone colour and found it just perfect to wear with dresses and skirts in the spring and fall. I'm imagining one out of gortex :) I have some green gortex and I think it would be a great covering for this rainy weather in the west.

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    1. Thank you Kathleen! If only a trench coat was something I needed lots of in my wardrobe I'd make them all haha.

      I'd definitely recommend it! I'm also tempted by a totally classic (Burberry-inspired) version. Gortex sounds perfect too! Hope you enjoy making it if you give it a go :)

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  10. Absolutely incredible! Well done!!

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  11. WOW this is beautiful! I am in the procrastinating fase...I bougth the paper pattern....so I need to trace it :))

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    1. Thank you Camelia! The tracing and prep is the worst bit, but definitely worth it. Hope you get to make yours soon :)

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